Hailing from Italy, Alessandro Michele might be at the creative helm of one of the country's most established fashion houses, but he broke down borders with his latest Gucci extravaganza, showing he is a true Anglophile at heart.
From the hallowed halls of the chosen venue – Westminster Abbey, where kings and queens are married, crowned and buried – to the street-wise reference points, this was a collection both regal and subversive in equal measure.
Michele captured the spirit of British fashion with a look that offered 70s suburban chic-meets-King’s Road peacocks and Camden punks, giving him license to combine Abigail’s Party-style ruffled sheers with Vivienne Westwood-inspired plaids and bleach-splattered denim.
It was street-meets-couture, as appliqued mini-kilts and acid-wash jeans ran side by side with intarsia furs, plisse chiffon and Chantilly lace, while silk satin bias gowns and sequined blousons were teamed with ladylike pleated print dresses and a classic trench straight from the shires.
Michele’s eccentric vision may be out of kilter with the downplayed styling of current influencer labels like Vetements, but there was much here to inspire the high street and much to covet for the luxury end of the market. From Wedgwood china prints to appliqued cats and King Charles spaniel motifs, striped sweaters to colour-blocked 60s mod dresses, each and every exit was a multilayered exercise in unashamed maximalism.
There was a multitude of accessories set to influence and excite, too. Expect to see lace hosiery making a comeback, along with multi-strap punk booties, embellished handheld bags and hobos, Union Flag loafers and floral patterned headscarves, frilled socks and stacked-sole boots straight from Mr Freedom’s 70s back catalogue.
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