A strong S/S showing from Miuccia Prada, dedicated to the power of women and their strength in the face of adversity. That message was delivered in everything on the runway, from the masculine tailoring, to the rock-studded accessories.
Celebrating the strength of sisterhood has been an ongoing preoccupation of the designer over the past few seasons, and the influence manifested itself for S/S 18 with a play on masculine/feminine, boy-meets-girl silhouettes, colour and fabrication.
Think masculine tweeds and feminine brocades, sassy skin prints and small-scale geos, boyish shorts and full 50s circle skirts, neat buttoned-up shirts and sexy back-slit pencil skirts. These played out in a palette of boardroom blacks and greys with pops of girly pastels and juicy brights.
Powerful shoulder lines and pushed-up sleeves informed the mannish coats and jackets that ran through the collection. Some garments were printed to celebrate crease lines, while other pieces bristled with customised studs, beads and paillettes. The season’s emerging plastic mac was present and correct too, here in glossy spot-printed patent.
Pastel-hued kitsch cartoon graphics and an all-over comic-book print were key standouts, mirroring the blow-up cartoons that provided the backdrop to the show. Think cute Manga-girl motifs, 30s and 60s comic-strip heroines and cartoon imagery of Angela Davis, the celebrated 70s US revolutionary. Her famous quote – “To understand how any society functions, you must understand the relationship between the men and the women” – could have been the mantra of the show.
Offsetting the brocade dresses were asymmetric knitted tanks and thrift-shop-styled coats, a raft of iconic nylon Prada satchels, studded sandals and kitten-heeled stilettos, hardware-trimmed brogues, and luxe croc handheld bags.
NEED TO KNOW