S/S 17 Influencer Show: Simone Rocha
While unlikely to influence the high street any day soon, Simone Rocha’s latest show at London Fashion Week was full of gentle poetic references and the kind of overtly feminine silhouettes that are resonating with the fashion crowd right now.
Rocha has the lightest of touches, her brand of romantic femininity the natural evolution of the work of her father, John Rocha, whose iconic collections graced LFW’s runways for more than 30 years.
Although this designer is immune to transient trends, her signature ruffles are right on the pulse this season, along with the froth of the white broderie anglaise and delicate embroidered sheers that opened the show. And in a new twist, Rocha tapped into another emerging key detail, with her use of knots and ties offering a way to control the soft volume of her silhouettes.
Asymmetry was another recurring theme, seen in her easy, off-the-shoulder trench coats and mismatched layered fabrics, while the season’s ongoing Edwardiana influences were in evidence in the soft, leg-of-mutton sleeves and ruffled yokes that gave dresses a pretty Sunday Best feel.
Colour is never Rocha’s raison d’etre, and she kept her S/S 17 palette to a neutral minimum of white, black and faux nude with spring-like embroidered accents of poppy, daffodil and leaf green.
Fabrics, too, had that same concise edit, with delicate sheers, tulle, guipure-embroidered organzas, crisp broderie anglaise and luscious floral embroidered taffetas offset with the contradictory masculine touch of classic Prince of Wales suiting checks.
But tempering all that pretty romance was a touch of quirky subversion in the Lucite-heeled Wellington boots and the broderie-effect rubber gloves that accessorised those virginal silhouettes.
NEED TO KNOW:
- Romantic and feminine
- Edwardiana influences
- Mismatched fabrics
- Asymmetric, off-the-shoulder trench coats over ruffled dresses
- Crisp broderies and embroidered or appliquéd organza
- Lace trims
- Soft ruffles and midi proportions
- Non-colour with pops of brights
- Rubber and Lucite for contrasting accessories.