NYFW S/S 2014: Alexander Wang
Since Alexander Wang took up the role of creative director at Balenciaga earlier this year, sceptics have voiced concerns as to whether his eponymous collection would suffer as a result. However, the American designer’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection, shown at New York Fashion Week on Saturday, dispelled such fears as he worked 90s logos, cotton shirting and American sportswear for a return to the contemporary streetwear-inspired aesthetic he was originally known for.
The branded logo was key; sheer sweatshirts were emblazoned with the words ‘Parental Advisory’ and, more subtly, the waistbands and bodies of skirts and dresses were decorated with repeated ‘Alexander Wang’ logos for an effect akin to a barcode. Look 17 was particularly interesting as the monochrome lines of the matching top and skirt meant Wang’s logo was almost disguised as an optical illusion.
The logo trend has previously seen brands such as DKNY and Versace reviving vintage logos for cult appeal. Wang seems to be both drawing on and developing this direction, establishing himself as the cult label of now through these branded logos.
Ra-ra skirts in cotton poplin felt flirtatious and fun, while the décolletage and midriff were key points of interest as jackets and shirts were buttoned at the neck and then left loose and wide for an upside down plunging neckline. Retro menswear staples such as cotton boxers, white-collar shirts and Fair Isle cardigans were reinterpreted for Wang’s contemporary customer in sheer fabrics and sexy cuts.
Laser-cut leather dresses showed impressive craftsmanship and served as the closing looks for the show. Other key silhouette details include the structured polo neck (still a key neckline after A/W 13-14), wide T-shirt sleeves and voluminous high-waisted shorts and trousers. Elbow-length gloves and Mary-Jane shoes served as unexpected ladylike accessories, executed in a subversive fashion in high-shine fabrics with the aforementioned logos.
Refresh your memory of A/W 13-14 with our coverage of NYFW from last season. New York Fashion Week continues until Thursday September 12.