With 2013 marking Oscar de la Renta’s 50th anniversary as a designer in New York, his Autumn/Winter 2013-14 collection was already of particular note. But he made it even more topical by inviting ex-Christian Dior Couture designer John Galliano to be a designer-in-residence a month before yesterday’s show.
While the degree of Galliano’s input remains unclear, aesthetically, the collection appeared to be a marriage of Galliano’s theatricality and De La Renta’s femininity. There was a sense of fairytale drama to the embroidered hooded capes, while ornate tulle jewel-coloured silk retained De La Renta’s signature sense of luxury.
The sharp shoulders, nipped-in waists and plunging necklines felt particularly Galliano, circa his days at Christian Dior, while the post-war silhouettes that harked back to a by-gone era of glamour were quintessential Oscar de la Renta. Vivid colours, curved cone-style hats and the occasional sheer midriff kept the collection contemporary and added an edge of subtle sexiness.
New York Fashion Week concludes tomorrow (February 14).