Unlike some male designers who create clothes that they would like to see women wearing, Dries Van Noten designs clothes women actually want to wear. His A/W 18/19 showing was full of covetable pieces celebrating colour and pattern, coupled with an easy elegance.
Silhouettes followed a simple template of louche cocooning coats, soft pants and boxy tops, drapey blousons and relaxed sheath dresses – all providing a blank canvas for Art Brut add link-styled doodle prints and playful checks.
There was an almost Oriental Deco feel to the bicoloured scribble prints, sometimes worked in a contradictory, haphazard pattern clash, or as dimensional embroideries and beaded motifs. Other textures came in the form of soft Mongolian lamb collars and stoles, as well as a vivid fringe fanning diagonally across simple skirts and dresses.
The palette was a masterclass in offbeat colour mixes. Think lilac, mint and chartreuse with pops of red, parrot green, violet, Gitanes blue and orange, all grounded with black, white and ochre.
Van Noten doesn’t usually amplify the season’s trends, but he reflected looks seen elsewhere this season in patterned outerwear, the draped 80s pouf of a blouse sleeve, and colourful plaids sympathetically rendered in double jersey. Metallic cloques and brocades also tapped into A/W 18/19’s emerging fabric directions.
These were effortlessly timeless clothes. Casual parkas and sporty jacquard or marled knits were thrown into the decorative mix, along with oversized fur hobo bags and covetable snakeskin boots, adding a luxurious everyday vibe.
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