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Fashion
Published: 18 Dec 2013

Fashion & Beauty Year in Review 2013

Fashion and beauty editor Joanna Shiers highlights key insights from 2013, charting womenswear, menswear, beauty and grooming directions, and highlighting emerging themes set to evolve during 2014.

The Hipster Grows Up

Hipsters – an influential postmodern subculture that first appeared in the 90s and gained particular prominence during the 2010s – have grown up. In 2013, this played out with a host of hipster creatives moving out of big cities to form new creative hubs – dubbed Hipsturbias by the New York Times – a movement explored specifically in The Outsiders: Emerging Fashion Hubs report. The ideas around this shift from built-up city dwelling to a more rural retreat and start-up style living were also discussed in the Cultivate section of our Industry Trend, Fashion In Flux. 

The online vs print magazine debate continued, with a marked shift towards new niche independent titles going back to physical, print magazines that are – crucially –highly collectable (see Print Media's New Wave). This is a reaction against the throwaway economy, and another indication of the necessary shift in consumer thinking towards a more considered form of consumption. 

It’s not just about independent titles; online luxury retail titan Net-A-Porter’s upcoming print magazine Porter is set to launch in February 2014 – an interesting move for a business based exclusively online, and indicative of this shift. Conversely, youth magazine Dazed & Confused is set to scale back its print runs next year to just six editions annually from its usual monthly offering.

Our annual summer Bridal report focused on the laid back, DIY approach defining the hipster. As the hipster grows up and gets married, a new bridal aesthetic emerges – one which celebrates a more personal, modern way to wed, where image-sharing sites like Pinterest are key sources of inspiration. 

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Designer Ryan Roche at home in upstate New York
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Farmer's Market
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So it Goes Magazine
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Day Job Magazine
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Libertine Magazine
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Hole & Corner
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Hole & Corner
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Stone Fox Bride
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Refinery 29, Pinterest
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Pamela Love wears Stone Fox Bride

The New Natural

Across our Industry Trends, catwalk and weekly reporting, we have tracked a rise in the celebration of the natural world, with designers looking to the beauty of the Earth. Our S/S 15 trend Rewilding spoke of a reaction against the haste, pace and milieu of modern life and a return to nature, calling for us to ‘rewild’.

A renewed focus on craft sees raw, natural materials elevated from their humble associations using innovative manufacturing and finishing techniques. They are transformed into future heirlooms as depleting raw materials become the ultimate new precious. As well as a literal take on this theme, beauty has seen a massive shift towards ‘natural’, ‘no make-up’ make-up. From the catwalk to the street, editorial and advertising has seen a marked shift towards a more natural beauty aesthetic, with HD (high definition) skin and glossy, healthy hair the ideal.

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'Eyes as Big as Plates', art Series by Riitta Ikonen
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Craig Green A/W 13-14
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'Eyes as Big as Plates' series by Riitta Ikonen
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John Rocha S/S 2014
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Vivienne Westwood S/S 2014
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Missoni A/W 2013 Campaign
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Aganovich S/S 2014
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Dana Taylor by Stevie and Mada, Purple Fashion Online

Anonymity

Reacting against the maximal peacock dressing of previous seasons, minimalist style (in line with the continued appeal of the 90s as an era of reference) was lauded across both women’s and menswear; anonymity emerges as the ultimate chic. Our women's and menswear S/S 14 trends Unseen andRetreat explore the mindset around this aesthetic, showcasing a growing shift towards going offline, and increasing mindfulness in regard to privacy. 

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Beyond the Body, Imme van der Haak, 2012 www.immevanderhaak.
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Vogue Hommes Japan, vol8 2012.

Rewriting the Fashion Rulebook

Our S/S 15 Industry Trend Fashion in Flux questioned elements of an industry obsessed with constant newness and innovation, while still being dictated to by a seasonal structure that is outdated at best. The somewhat tired format of the Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer fashion seasons demands change; we proposed a Seasonless approach to shopping and dressing aligning with today’s global fashion culture. We also charted the growth of transeasonality on both the catwalks and the streets – particularly influential in terms of fashion Colour.

We also increased our social media reportage, posing the question: Social Media & Fashion Week: What’s Next? as part of our S/S 14 womenswear show coverage. We also covered the influence and popularity of apps like Instagram (see Rising Menswear Stars and Super-Bloggers). But with an emerging shift towards privacy in 2014, how will fashion brands engage with consumers? 

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Burberry films its S/S 2014 show using the iPhone 5S
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Topshop's Chirp garden instore at the Oxford Circus flagship
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Tuula Vintage
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@ventureandvirtue
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Focus on Beauty

2013 saw our focus on regular beauty trend updates increase to cover specific product challenges. We explored the personal approach to beauty in Bespoke Skincare and the importance of packaging in the emerging Unisex market, along with the new wave of taboo ingredients in Strange Beauty and natural ingredients in The New Eco Beauty

We also introduced more detailed analysis from our runway reportage with a standalone Catwalk Beauty round-up for S/S 14, as well as more beauty focus in our inspirational street-style round-ups. The New Year will also see us delving deeper into the growing health and wellness sector, and our Future Beauty & Grooming Industry Trend is slated to publish in February 2014.

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The Brave & the Buautiful, Swiish, Australian blog
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Anne Semonin
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Christian Dior Couture S/S 2014
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(Malin + Goetz) Unisex Beauty Products
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Earth Tu Face
FUTURE INSIGHTS
Seasonless: The New Fashion Season Rethinking fashion's outdated season system is imperative. Social media has fuelled an ‘instant trend’ appetite among consumers. The high street has used this to its advantage with weekly drops for constant newness. Designer brands need to re-evaluate and look to innovators who are side-stepping traditional seasons for a ‘slow’ approach that isn’t dictated to by the demands of Autumn/Winter, Spring/Summer, pre-collections, resort, diffusion, capsule and collaboration. 
Being Mindful Matters Intelligent brands must tap into the emerging mindset of a more considered approach to consumption, where consumers buy less, but buy better – ‘collecting’ rather than consuming.  
Back to Nature Goods crafted from depleting raw materials, elevated by innovative manufacturing and finishing techniques, will become the heirlooms of the future. As consumer consciousness rises around the detrimental effects of fast fashion landfill, invest in making your brand more sustainable and transparent to boost your eco credentials.
TOPICS: Fashion

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