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Published: 23 Sep 2016

S/S 17 Influencer Show: Prada

In troubled times, there is comfort to be found in the safety net of the past. But while other designers trawled the history books for inspiration this season, Miuccia Prada turned the back pages of her in-house archive to take the label back to its roots.

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Prada S/S 17
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Prada S/S 17
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Prada S/S 17

The 90s were Prada’s glory years, and the iconic silhouettes of its signature look were all present and correct, with simplified shapes and prim, below-the-knee hemlines.

It was all about demure shirtdresses, androgynous jacquard tanks, bralet tops and high-cut knickers, along with knee-length wrap skirts and buttoned-up jazzy print shirts in Prada’s signature ‘bad taste’ colourways – but as ever with this label, there was a subtle sense of subversion underpinning each exit.

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Prada S/S 17
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Prada S/S 17
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Prada S/S 17

It may have been the unexpected and slightly surreal marabou trims, which fronded everything from trouser hems and cuffs to the edges of crisp wrap coats and the collection’s flat sandals, or perhaps the sporty popsicle-coloured plastic accessories and pins, which added a go-fast feel to the look.

The collection was womanly but not feminine – a path Prada has trodden the past few seasons with a cornucopia of pattern and embellishment. This was more about a woman in charge of her own destiny than one seeking flirty fun. 

Offbeat pattern play added to the independent mood, with checked blazers and bright patterned geos, supported by a graphic colour palette of black, red, winter white, grey and camel with pops of aquarelle pales for the closing sequence of crystal and paillette dusted coats and dresses.

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Prada S/S 17
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Prada S/S 17
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Prada S/S 17

The accessories for the new Prada woman had that same no–nonsense appeal, with pastel or patterned envelope clutch purses, chunky bowling bags, kitten heeled or flat, Velcro-strapped sandals and plastic chain pendant necklaces.

NEED TO KNOW:

  • Nineties influences
  • Simplified, no-nonsense silhouettes with a touch of subversion
  • Checks and mismatched graphic prints
  • Sporty bra tops and high-cut knickers teamed with patterned shirts
  • Shirtdresses, wrap skirts and tank tops are the new Prada uniform
  • Unexpected feminine trims like marabou and crystal
  • Demure, below-the-knee hemlines.
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