Spring/Summer 2012 marks the debut collections of a number of new designers taking the reins at significant Paris fashion houses. Some of the most notable at Paris Fashion Week include Bill Gaytten at John Galliano, Yoshiyuki Miyamae at Issey Miyake, and Gabrielle Greiss, formerly of Sonia Rykiel, presenting her own womenswear line.
Six months on from John Galliano’s controversial departure from his self-titled label, Gaytten has utilised his skills as a master pattern cutter to put his own architectural spin on Galliano’s romantic aesthetic. Taking inspiration from two famous Marys – Mary Poppins and Mary Pickford – Gaytten showed a round-shouldered silhouette consisting of floppy corsages, puff sleeves, and lace-printed skirts.
Like Gaytten, Miyamae was also promoted from within, having worked as part of predecessor Dai Fujiwara's team before taking creative control at Issey Miyake. Showing on Sunday October 2, he showcased billowing dresses in feather-light fabrics, and sportswear-inspired body-mapped leggings, which exposed calves in transparent panels and cutwork.
Following an 18-month stint as creative director of French fashion label Sonia Rykiel, French designer Greiss left to launch her own womenswear label. Co-designed with Annette Hultzsch – another Rykiel alumna – Greiss' line of 20 artfully constructed dresses depicts a relaxed, ethereal draped silhouette, inspired by dreamy nouvelle vague films and Corinne Day photographs.
Paris Fashion Week concludes tomorrow, with presentations from Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Elie Saab.