Fashion is indeed a fickle beast. Just as the rest of the world struggles to get to grips with maximalism à la Alessandro Michele, the man himself opened Gucci’s latest showing with a positively plain, perfect all-white leather trench.
There were other perfectly cut, unadorned pieces throughout the highly polished, achingly-want-it-now A/W 16/17 collection. Think a classic Prince of Wales pant suit and sharply cut tuxedos vying for attention alongside the more familiar territory of Michele’s eccentrically styled take on vintage glamour.
And there was glamour in spades from the Chinoiserie embroidered cheongsam dresses to his ruffled knits – an emerging trend throughout the last two weeks of shows. Also on display were Byzantium cherub printed ballgowns and a gold baseball jacket teamed with a crane-patterned satin pleated skirt.
Eye-searing optical prints had a 1960s feel, melding Michele-style with exaggerated 80s-style puffed shoulderlines and Lady Di-inspired tricorn hats. Not forgetting the 3D poppies, the flounces of rainbow chiffon and the impeccable gilded brocade tailoring, cranes and embroidered birds of paradise that were added to the melting pot.
The Gucci heritage was never far away despite the overload of embellishment and razzle-dazzle metallic shine, with signature Gucci striped ribbing on oversized blousons and a simple GG print making a statement on a white skirt.
One-colour dressing was still a key look among the rainbow palette of poppy, bubblegum, spearmint, teal, apple, lilac and daffodil, reinforcing fashion’s emerging message of a more season-neutral approach, something Michele has championed since his first outing for Gucci.
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