A mash-up of influences informed Dries Van Noten’s latest S/S 17 showing as Japonesque and Edwardiana influences melded with casual sportswear looks. An unlikely mix? No – the perfect blend of offbeat reference points mirrors the way women dress today.
Van Noten gave us a masterclass in serene loucheness with his elongated, relaxed silhouettes. Oversized coats were layered over slouched wide-legged pants, while the simplicity of languid slip dresses was coupled with Japonesque floral motifs and satin ankle-tie shoes. And there was a subtle masculine/feminine vibe in the easy shorts and tees, contrasted with nipped-waist Edwardiana leg-of-mutton-sleeved jackets and their matching wide-legged pants.
Fabrics reiterated the mismatched mood, with ecru denim sitting happily alongside glossy patent, crisp taffeta, floral brocade, lace and satin. Meanwhile, jet-encrusted beading and ruffles played the historical card to the max on a series of beautiful Edwardiana-style blouses, as well as trimming simple black swagger coats – all with a quiet sense of perfect imperfection via raw, unravelling hems.
But it wasn’t all historical romance. Van Noten melded sportswear influences into the mix in the slouchy brocade blousons and easy-fit denim jeans and maxi skirts, as well as in the casual simplicity of an oversized camel sweatshirt dress. The perfect contrast to the collection’s stylised floral prints, sleek satins and delicate ruffled sheers.
As ever, colour was mixed with a painterly hand – think Chinese lacquer yellow highlighting a palette of ivory, black, olive and camel with a burst of azure blue and Jaffa orange accenting prints. And to complete the look, simple thong sandals and satin ankle-tie shoes, mini box bags and high, jet-strewn choker necklaces.
NEED TO KNOW