Hedi Slimane decamped to Los Angeles for his Pre-Fall romp through the Saint Laurent archive, watched by a star-studded front row with serious rock credentials.
The rumour mill may be in overdrive regarding Hedi Slimane’s tenure at the house, but that didn’t stop him giving one of his best collections to date with his Pre-Fall 16 line-up. And the change of venue was mirrored with a change of silhouette as last season’s Courtney Love-style grunge punkettes were replaced by 70s-inspired covered-up looks.
Courtney might have been off the agenda but there was plenty to love in the archive-inspired midi-length gauchos and tailored military coats, both teamed with demure pussy-bow blouses, mannish waistcoats (vests) and seriously stiletto-heeled knee-length boots.
Signature vintage Yves Saint Laurent high-necked peasant-style dresses came with familiar gathered yoke details and billowing sleeves, reworked Slimane-style in skin prints or glittering lamés – even smudgy floral prints – layered under glamorous lynx gilets and cinched with wide jewel-buckle belts.
Colour was a tightly edited affair, with a palette of red, black, winter white, tan, silver and gold, working perfectly in sync with the collection’s suede, leather, tweed, silk and lamé fabric choices.
The silhouette template was a concise edit, too, with a newly grown-up look as 70s-inspired hemlines hit mid-calf, balanced by mini Le Smoking or cropped, studded leather jackets and embellished bejewelled blousons.
Finishing touches included needle-toed metallic snakeskin boots and the floral embroidered boots that were more than a nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s 1976 Russian collection.
Need to Know: Classic Yves Saint Laurent archival looks reinvented with LA-rock overtones … midi-gauchos … pussy-bow blouses ... waistcoats … fur gilets and peasant dresses … military tailored coats … mini Le Smoking … studded leather jackets … mini blousons … tweed, leather, suede, fur … gold and silver lamés