Designer of the moment Haider Ackermann showed his new collection in Paris on Saturday. Named by Karl Lagerfeld as his preferred successor to the Chanel empire, Ackermann wowed editors with what Style.com described as "what might be the show of the season".
Once again tapping into next season's masculine/feminine trend, Ackermann's A/W 2011-12 offering was a beguiling take on gothic romance. Cinched, flowing overcoats and tumbling satin were layered with leather and suede to create a fluid, yet tough look. Unfinished seams and this season's signature asymmetric hem added to the drama of the collection.
For eveningwear, models were transformed into shimmering jewels, draped in thick swathes of teal and oxblood satin.
A nonchalant, languid silhouette prevailed throughout, with rolled-up sleeves and the nudest of make-up reminding us that Ackermann's woman has plenty of attitude as well as elegance.