The 70s wins accolades for being the decade that continues to inspire designers more than 40 years on, and Marc Jacobs gave us the 70s in spades for his Spring/Summer 2017 show – a fitting wham-bam finale to close a mundane New York Fashion Week.
But this was the 70s with a twist, as Jacobs brought 90s rave culture into the mix, combining rainbow dreadlocks and Vivienne Westwood-style towering platforms (remember that Naomi moment?) with iconic 70s reference points.
In amongst the 90s camo prints, military parkas, oversized letterman jackets and those elevated ghillie platforms, there were signature 70s influences culled from the iconic Biba, glam rock, Kansai Yamamoto and Kings Road Mr Freedom years. These came through in the appliquéd boots and over-the-knee striped socks, the metallic leathers, appliquéd, poppered A-line skirts and pretty frilled mini dresses with their Biba-esque puffed sleeves.
And there were plenty of items we can expect to see inspiring the junior high street next season. Not least the fit-and-flare, jeans-style coats or the rainbow knits, the oversized striped sweats, puff-sleeved denim jackets, appliquéd mini skirts and super-skinny metallic jeans, or the patchwork suede coats.
It was a razzle-dazzle, feel-good show full of sparkle and shine – just what the fashion pack needed after a week of betwixt-and-between collections. Think holographic sequins, Lurex-shot tweed and slinky lamé, gleaming candy-coloured satin, metallic leather and snakeskin mixed in with street-wise denim, girl-gang camouflage and the most delicate, butter-wouldn’t-melt sheers.
Seventies-style placement appliqués and embroideries were the work of British illustrator Julie Verhoeven, who is surely due a fashion revival soon. The details were childlike and playful, and full of that sunny innocence that marked the flower power era.
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