Dries Van Noten may not generate the social media frenzy surrounding other designers in Paris, but that doesn’t mean his runway didn’t deliver a parade of the most covetable clothes seen this week.
Taking the simple scarf as his motif du jour, Van Noten mixed deco and Japonesque influences for his elegantly draped layered silhouettes, played out in luxe silks and satins, wafting sheers, metallic brocades and fluid suitings.
There was a quiet confidence in the collection’s clashing print combinations and quirky colour mixes, which saw warm sandalwood and faux nude tones merge into buddleia greens and yellows, saffron and orchid pink, offset with lacquer black and soft rose gold.
A harmonious medley of print and pattern saw Japanesque-inspired florals and deco-style geo repeats combine with traditional scarf prints and diagonal stripe mixes, alleviated by a dusting of subtly sparkling wave and star motifs.
These colour and pattern mixes were masterfully combined in the soft trench coats and easy kimono jackets, topping slim-legged pants and barely-there sheer skirts or simple sheaths with their elegantly fluttering scarf panels and dipping hemlines. In a nod to the season’s sportswear influences, Van Noten gave us neat-fit knits with striped tipping trims.
Footwear and accessories took print and pattern to the max with squishy floral patterned envelope bags and pointed boots, while bejewelled sandals added the final decorative flourish.
NEED TO KNOW: