Boy Meets Grunge at Jil Sander
Raf Simons’ Spring 2012 men’s collection for Jil Sander fused schoolboy tailoring with a punk aesthetic reminiscent of the eighties Ska movement. With an eclectic basis of inspiration, looks ranged from Modern electronica to the post-war garcon style. Tweed-textured knitwear harking back to a home-spun era was worn under clear plastic capes and jackets, working a futuristic take on layering.
The Belgian fashion designer’s inspiration included cult film Blade Runner, so unsurprisingly, black was the basis for the Italian label’s collection. However, pops of vibrant colour were visible in boxy knitwear, short-sleeved T-shirts, and bright snakeskin bags worn harnessed around the body, breaking up the palette. Shorts were a key piece for the collection, with styles ranging from tailored shapes to high-waisted culotte styles. Sloped shoulders, wet-look hair and chunky worker boots offered a consistent silhouette, adding to the grunge aesthetic of the collection.