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Brief Published: 7 Mar 2013

PFW A/W 13-14: Utility Reimagined


Paris Fashion Week saw designers reappropriating the biker jacket and other utilitarian outerwear into feminine shapes. Givenchy showed sleeveless and shoulderless black padded biker jackets, folded over to create a new edgier take on the peplum, while at Miu Miu, quilted, parka-esque pieces with full-length zippers were belted at the waist for a modern take on the hourglass silhouette.

The movement was seen happening in tandem on the streets, too. A black leather bodice with biker-jacket hardware offers a new, body-conscious take on the faithful perfecto jacket. Worn over a gothic black polo neck and maxi skirt, the piece works as the focal point of the outfit, teaming bad-girl attitude with classic eveningwear lines.

Editor and stylist Carine Roitfeld was spotted wearing one of the Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2013-14 leather bustiers at Paris Fashion Week soon after Riccardo Tisci debuted the pieces on the runway in his standout show.Styled with a zip-detail pencil skirt, black cashmere sweater and dramatic Rick Owens visor sunglasses, Roitfeld demonstrated how to work the directional catwalk piece off the runway.

Also see the fuzzy teddy bear coat for an example of trends occurring simultaneously on the catwalks and the streets.