NYFW S/S 2014: Marc Jacobs

After a wealth of undetailed minimalism at New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs went against the grain with a dark, ornate collection that fused Victorian with streetwear. With an epic set depicting a rubbish-strewn beach complete with cigarette butts, fashion magazines and empty Big Gulp cups, Jacobs immediately set the scene for his anti-summer collection.

While the opening silhouettes were modern and athletic (boyish shorts and voluminous jackets), the detail and colour were thoroughly 19th century, with floral brocade, beading and rich fringing adding rich texture. Sneakers, flat boots and sandals that were half traditional Geta, half Birkenstocks, gave even the most austere look a casual edge, while acrylic cropped blonde wigs offered a rebellious contrast.

High funnel necks, sheer black voile sleeves and intricate lattice work created a mysterious, almost Gothic aesthetic, while embellished sweaters and cardigans (one of which had a metallic Coca-Cola emblem on the front) referenced the youth culture and attitude seen in the catwalk’s set design.

NYFW finished yesterday, with London Fashion Week commencing today.