Menswear S/S 18: The New Normal
Hi-lo collaborations and streetwear influences have dominated menswear collections in recent years, with Supreme’s catwalk debut and a widespread Vetements-style irony solidifying the place of ‘ordinary’ in luxury fashion.
This season, a number of designers went further still – concerning themselves not only with the lower budget, but still fashion-centric wardrobes of streetwear fans, but also those of the ‘normal’ office worker or dad.
- Y/Project: Reworked versions of classic garments made for a re-envisioned everyman wardrobe at the Parisian label, where classic dad jeans and anorak combos were oversized or skewed at the seams. Gigantic proportions and normcore styling reflected the Vetements aesthetic, although the sombre palette and logo-free line-up offered a more mature irony.
- Fendi: The Italian label also graduated from the loud and logoed school of thought, instead providing riffs on modern workplace attire to reflect the changing (often younger) faces of boardrooms and business meetings. Traditional workplace garments were redesigned in unexpected fabrics, with trenches, suits and tailored shorts cut in checked organza. The house’s ‘Skype look’ – a mink blazer worn above a pair of relaxed tan shorts – solidified its tongue-in-cheek commitment to the modern working uniform.
- Martine Rose: Cycling shorts, zip-up fleeces and stiff slacks belted too high made for bad dadwear at the emerging British designer’s S/S 18 show – held inside a community climbing gym in Tottenham, London. Rose’s inspirations didn’t stray too far from her showspace, with the designer referencing the uniforms of outdoor lifestyle activities, golf, cycling and climbing – all inspired by the notoriously casually dressed leader of the UK Labour party, Jeremy Corbyn. For more on the growth of the outdoor lifestyle sector, see Fashion: The Lifestyle Lift – Outdoor Lifestyle.
- Balenciaga: For S/S 18, Demna Gvasalia continued the exploration of his self-defined corporate man, reviewing the codes of weekend and casual Friday dressing in the guise of the archetypal family man. Expected ‘dad’ pairings of bleached jeans and pinstriped shirts were dressed with brown leather shoes and relaxed suit jackets. However, garments were constructed in ways that looked purposely lived in, with lopsided granddad jackets weighed down in the pockets and linings. Elsewhere, Gvasalia stuck to his Vetements agenda, imbuing the traditionally mundane pieces of the man-hoarded wardrobe – think anoraks, rugby tops and Hawaiian shirts – with a sense of cool.
For more on elevating the everyday, see our latest Macro Trend report The Edge of Extravagance. The changing nature of workwear will also be addressed in our forthcoming Industry Trend New Fashion Landscape 2017, as well as in our Future of Work Macro Trend.