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Brief Published: 18 Sep 2013

LFW S/S 2014: Simone Rocha


Young London designer Simone Rocha presented her latest collection at London Fashion Week today and continued to hone her subversive ladylike aesthetic to rave reviews.

Having already gained a wealth of positive press and many cult fans over the past few seasons, Rocha is now at a pivotal point in her career, and her designs continue to go from strength to strength. Spring/Summer 2014 combined her signature girlish-yet-technical fabrics with a dark, retro edge. Pearl-encrusted knee-high pop socks, thigh-high slashes on skirts and bare midriffs added a naughty streak to the austere shapes and sugary ruffles.

Pearls were central to the collection and Rocha turned the stones’ Stepford Wives connotations on their head, with pearl chokers and floral-shaped embellishment delivering attitude with an almost sinister edge. There were plenty of saleable pieces that will no doubt have the fashion crowd excited: pearl-trimmed trousers, a richly textured metallic coat and clear plastic separates are already begging to be snapped on the streets next season.

Oversized silk-satin slip dresses nodded to 1940s film noir, while spiky topknot mohawks and sensible buckled sandals with Perspex soles ensured the collection stayed firmly rooted in London's sub-culture. Material development has always been integral to Rocha’s look, with lace in particular being key. This season, Rocha showed glossy coated lace and transparent PVC pieces embedded with lace alongside broderie anglaise and tulle for a multi-textured result.

The classic runway trope of a finale bridal look was given a modern spin: the three final looks were shrouded in blush-pink veils with daisy-shaped pearls embroidered onto sheer organza gloves and stockings for a fitting finale.