MFW A/W 15-16: Gucci
Alessandro Michele delivered his first womenswear collection at Milan Fashion Week after being appointed last minute as creative director of Gucci. The brand’s mood has shifted, joining Prada in its exploration of modern gender modes, and targeting a younger, hipper clientele.
This collection cuts the brand’s association with glamour and showcases a fresh, romantic attitude, which draws upon many of the ugly, geeky, androgynous signifiers adopted by Prada. Subtle styling elements such as pink ombré hair, pompom hats and colourful fur accents further speak to this new Gucci customer – a vintage thrift-shop darling with a penchant for modernising heirloom pieces.
Femme: Michele’s Autumn/Winter 2015-16 menswear collection showcased how womenswear detailing is contributing to the feminisation of menswear. This time, he deployed both male and female models on the womenswear runway, experimenting with both feminine and masculine silhouettes and details. See the Femme trend of the A/W 15-16 Menswear catwalks and Liberating Gender for a more detailed discussion about modern gender roles in fashion.
70s: The era of earthy brown tones, retro florals and pussy bows continues to inspire designers, with Gucci showcasing these retro colours and details alongside fun fur coats and horse-bit loafers.
Geek Suits: Patterned suits are a draw here, with blousy, wallpaper prints adapting traditional suiting for a romantic update. This is likely to filter through to the contemporary market, but also offers prints and pattern inspiration for interiors and accessories. See A/W 15-16 Marc By Marc Jacobs for more.