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Brief Published: 5 Mar 2012

PFW A/W 12-13: Bold and Beautiful


Oversized coats in bold, strong colours have been a standout piece for Paris Fashion Week, with various designers offering their take on the piece for a striking, voluminous silhouette.

Japanese label Commes des Garcons opened its Autumn/Winter 2012-13 show with a 'two-dimensional', flat-pressed crimson coat. Inspired by children’s book character Flat Stanley, the collection followed a quirky paper doll aesthetic with square, boxy felt coats and jackets.

A satirical jab at the increasingly online-focused medium of fashion, Commes des Garcons showed fashion-favourite prints such as polka-dots, leopard print and florals for a tongue-in-cheek reference to fashion clichés. The collection’s huge silhouettes and floral, full-length jumpsuits that covered the body from head to toe reflected Stylus’ Hide & Seek concept. For more information, see the Where's Wally direction in our Hide & Seek Print & Fabrication report; Masks in our Hide & Seek Styling: Scene report; and Massive Attack and The Tetris Effect in our Hide & Seek Styling: Player report.

Elsewhere, Phoebe Philo’s intimate collection for Celine featured wildly oversized Crombie coats, with a cobalt blue wool coat offering a particularly strong example of this hugely proportioned outerwear. With an aesthetic rooted in the 1980s androgynous silhouette, the garment found its contemporary edge in flat, sloping shoulders and vivid colours.

Issey Miyake showed crimson cocoon coats as the closing looks for his A/W 12 collection, with clashing, multi-coloured panels of print adding a retro edge and linking to Hide & Seek’s playful tone. Also playing on proportion, Stella McCartney showed voluminous yet structured coats alongside accentuated hourglass-shaped knitwear and dresses with nipped in waists and exaggerated hips.

Paris Fashion Week concludes on the 7 March 2012.

Paris Fashion Week