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Brief Published: 5 May 2017

Hyper-Natural Beauty: NYSCC 2017

Le Prunier

Sustainability was high on the agenda at this year’s NYSCC (New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists) Suppliers Day (May 2-3). The event was moved from New Jersey to Manhattan’s Javitz Centre for an expanded show hosting more than 400 exhibitors. 

  • New Oil Narratives: US organisation Palm Done Right is aiming to change the old narrative of palm oil – the poster ingredient for bad ecological and social practices, including the deforestation of tropical sanctuaries like the Amazon. It showcased a 100% transparent supply chain for its Habiwax 100 – the first ever organic palm-oil wax.

    California’s Le Prunier is also reframing perceptions with a cold-pressed organic virgin plum oil harvested from its fourth-generation-owned plum farm. Eight times more powerful then Argan oil at defending against hydroxyl radicals, the oil is also a rich source of vitamins A and E. 
    Elsewhere, Olivem 2020 by Chicago-based Hallstar is an olive oil-derived emulsifier. Also cold processed, it allows for the preparation of oil-in-water formulas without added heat or pressure.

    Winner of the NYSCC Sustainable Product Award, New Jersey brand Seppic’s Emogreen L15 and L19 biodegradable liquid emollients are of non-GMO vegetable origin. Both offer an all-purpose alternative to silicone oils. 
  • Bio-Functional: Combining high performance with sustainable ingredients, Kentucky-based Ashland’s FiberHance solution is a molecule derived from sustainable glucose. It strengthens the internal structure of the hair (instead of simply coating the surface) by up to three times.

    Paris-based Gattefosse showcased its Gatuline Link and Lift eye-contour cream as the first active derived from French horse-chestnut flowers. The cream was formulated using its NaDES technology, enabling the natural and non-toxic creation of active compositions that is unattainable with conventional solvents.

  • Pollution Focus: Echoing findings from London’s In-Cosmetics 2017 cosmetic formula conference (April 4-6), anti-pollution solutions dominated innovations. French brand Alban Muller presented its detoxifying Precious Tree Black cream, created with purified extract of alga from the Mediterranean Sea, plus purified extract of prickly pear in jojoba oil.

    Similarly combining natural resources to fight pollution, Swiss Lipoid Kosmetik presented its Herbashield URB product with active watercress, horsetail and nettle extracts, while New Jersey-based Naturex showcased hibiscus acids designed to catch pollutants and release impurities from the upper layers of the skin.

    For more on beauty solutions to pollution, see Cosmoprof Beauty 2017In-Cosmetics 2016Beauty 360 and Nature Embracers.

See also New Beauty Formulations: In-Cosmetics 2017 for more standout cosmetic ingredient and formula developments and the trends driving them.