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Brief Published: 30 Sep 2011

PFW S/S 2012: Balenciaga


Designer Nicholas Ghesquière's latest presentation for Balenciaga showcased his talent for proportion and ability to elevate simple items like jeans and white tees to haute heights. This season offered a bold silhouette of strong, curved footballer shoulders and tiny sports shorts, with whippet waists defined by high-cut jeans and cinched belts. Dresses took on egg-timer shapes, while spongy light jackets did most of the talking in boxy but weightless forms.

Several colour stories featured with an early brash mélange of brights in high-shine fabrics, bringing the current V&A postmodernism exhibition to mind. Orange, mustard and rust hues were combined with navy to provide a beautifully wearable mix of tone and texture. Later colour segued into khaki, black and olive, the traditional shades of warfare being re-appropriated for a new urban conflict.

Iridescent pailettes offered surface interest in the final looks, while clean animal prints were patched together. Patch pockets were a key design feature on trousers, blouses and fisherman-style tunic dresses. The collection was styled with oversized, egg-brimmed hats, while sporty blown-up clutches provided a new template for the summer tote.