NYFW S/S 2012: Proenza Schouler
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the New York-based duo behind Proenza Schouler, presented a vintage-inspired collection for Spring/Summer 2012-13 at New York Fashion Week on September 14 2011.
A retro silhouette and throwback colour palette created a nostalgic feel, with wallpaper prints injecting a bit of 1970s exoticism. Buttoned-up shorts suits, knee-length shirt dresses and slim belts made for a demure 1940s silhouette. Much to the designers' credit, the multi-layered design references cut together harmoniously, creating a modern take on old-school glamour.
As always, Proenza Schouler looked forward as well as back, pushing fabrication development by mixing materials such as glossy eel skin with colours like bright citruses to retain a sense of cool modernity. Craft was key to the collection with woven raffia skirts, beaded bags and wooden-soled shoes maintaining a subtle sense of tropical island living. Ruching and knotting details on printed pieces added to the sophisticated aesthetic, while shoulders, legs and the occasional bare midriff kept the looks sexy and strong.
New York Fashion Week concluded yesterday, with London Fashion Week commencing today.