MakeUp in Paris 2018: Top 5 Trends
From extreme colour to unisex make-up, the 2018 edition of annual cosmetics and packaging trade show MakeUp in Paris (June 21-22) highlighted strong beauty directions, with brands and formulators prioritising sustainability with sex appeal.
Here are the top five trends from the show:
- Advanced Colour Cosmetics: Some of the most exciting launches showcased make-up with added skincare benefits. Italian cosmetics developer Ancorotti launched an entire eye collection with products that tapped into this. Mascara Electra, for example, boasts a formula containing an active ingredient called Blue Lock to protect the lashes against damage from the blue light emitted from smartphone and laptop screens.
For more on pollutant-protective product and the growing importance of this category in both make-up and skincare, see Agile Beauty and Pollution Protection Update.
- Extreme Colour: Colour cosmetic developers were keen to showcase new launches that tapped into extreme and dynamic colour. A standout product line came from German brand Weckerle. Its UV Collection of lip liners, lipsticks and a mascara offers bold colours that glow bright blue under UV light – ideal for young, music-loving consumers.
Bold metallics also fall under this category, with brands like US pharmaceutical company Merck, international chemicals producer BASF, and US cosmetics business Presperse showing advanced pigments with holographic and enhanced light reflection. An example of finished product showing the appeal of molten metallics was German brand Gotha Cosmetics’ award-winning Metal Foil Eye Cream.
Holographic visuals were also seen in beauty accessories, such as the bright make-up bag showcased by German developer Geka.
- Sustainability Push: Unlike previous years, sustainable and ethical credentials were key drivers for new product development, in line with growing consumer demand for eco-friendly beauty. More simplistic initiatives, like French manufacturer Alkos’s solid shampoo and perfume bars, tap into the success of British natural brand Lush’s solid products. And Italian packaging manufacturer Mktg Industry launched its Gea Collection of cardboard beauty packaging featuring minimal, but nonetheless recyclable, plastic.
More technically impressive examples of sustainability were seen in French developer Cosmogen’s new sustainable raw material PCR, which behaves like plastic and can replace most, if not 100%, of the material in the brand’s packaging portfolio.
German brand Schwan Cosmetics showcased its eco-friendly range of beauty pencils. They’re made from renewable wood using an industry-first technology that allows high-quality formulas to be encased in wood without degrading quickly. For more on the latest in eco beauty, see The Great Beauty Green-Up.
- Velvet Allure: From a formula perspective, the texture of choice this year was velvet. Numerous raw cosmetics developers highlighted the appeal of velvet finishes that combine the pigment payoff of matte with the comfort of gloss or cream finishes.
The beauty division of German pen and pencil manufacturer Faber Castell introduced Velvet Delight – a glide-on lipstick with a velvety, matte finish that is pigment-rich and lasts for up to six hours.
According to the brand, it doesn’t dry out the lips as many long-wear matte formulas can, but still retains their non-feathering, transfer-resistant appeal. Enriched with Panthenol (a form of vitamin B5 used as a moisturiser and lubricating compound), the product glides on like butter, but stays put.
- Unisex Appeal: As we explore in The Male Beauty Moment and Asian Beauty Now: New Markets, New Ideas, men are becoming more open to the idea of using make-up. But there is still only a handful of brands creating product that’s aimed at them, or marketing their offerings as unisex.
In response, Ancorotti is introducing an entire unisex range of make-up products that could appeal to all genders, with the aim of inspiring men to express themselves. The Skin Wears Silk powder, for example, can be used by women to finish off their make-up look, while men (who tend to have oilier, and therefore shinier skin) can use it on its own to mattify.