Menswear A/W 15-16: Prada
For the first time, Italian designer Miuccia Prada showed her Autumn/Winter 2015-16 menswear collection and Pre-Fall 2015 womenswear collection simultaneously as a nod to her inspiration for the seasons: gender identity.
“Gender is a context and context is often gendered,” read a manifesto for the collections – speaking to a wider discussion about gender identity and LGBTQ values filtering into the mainstream, and shifting traditional fashion industry conventions. For more on this, see our report Fashion & Beauty: Liberating Gender.
The collection showcased a dark, no-nonsense colour palette of blacks, greys and blues, with styling often working black on black for a strong workwear uniform aesthetic – further eradicating the signifiers of masculine and feminine. The use of fabric is also key, with glossy nylons (replicated from the show’s fabric-swatch invitation) cementing the collection’s industrial look.
Beauty and grooming lived up to this gender-blending vision, with male models sporting soft, preppy fringes that gave a hint of feminine elegance. Girls wore minimal make-up, with only a slick of black kohl along the lower lash line differentiating them from their male counterparts. Hair was worn roughly scraped back in a loose top bun.
See our full coverage of the A/W 15-16 menswear catwalks for more.