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Brief Published: 26 Apr 2012

Desa x Graeme Black


Turkish womenswear brand and leather company Desa has launched its new collaborative collection with Scottish designer Graeme Black for Autumn/Winter 2012. Marking Desa’s 40th anniversary, the creative partnership aims to marry English and Turkish cultures and aesthetics to bring a new direction to the heritage brand.

With more than 70 outlets across Turkey and Saudi Arabia in addition to an e-commerce site, Desa is based on a heritage of company-owned tanneries that have been operating in Turkey since 1972. Since creative director Fred Tutino took the helm in 2008, Desa has accelerated its branding efforts, adding a luxury ready-to-wear line, with top-quality leather serving as the label’s signature textile.

With production still entirely based in Istanbul, Desa chose to begin its international expansion in London, opening a European head office in 2008 and its first flagship store in 2010.

Graeme Black, whose CV boasts stints at Salvatore Ferragamo, John Galliano and Giorgio Armani, founded his own line in 2005. The collection for Desa aims to unite his refined, luxury aesthetic with the brand’s extensive Turkish heritage and fabric know-how. Broken down into three sub-collections – the aptly named East Meets West, Grey Mists on the Bosphorous and Byzantine Glow – each draws on a distinct colour palette and different aspects of artisanal design.

The inclusion of English tweeds and herringbones add a British country pursuits feel to the collection, while intricate laser-cut ponyskin overlays and warm colours reflect the brand’s ‘Made in Istanbul’ branding.

Graeme Black’s collaborative collection for Desa goes on sale in August 2012.