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Brief Published: 27 Sep 2017

New Eyeliner Techniques Sweep S/S 18 Catwalks


The S/S 18 catwalks have updated the classic feline eye flick in a variety of different styles, providing huge scope for new product development and adoption at consumer level.

  • Thumbprint: In New York, rounded, winged looks were labelled “thumbprint liner” thanks to their soft, oval shape. At Jason Wu, Mexican-American make-up artist Yadim used Maybelline’s Urban Jungle shadow to create deep-green, smudge-like crescents at the corner of the eye. Tom Ford upped the glamour by layering black eyeliner, glitter and gloss: "We didn’t want a straight line – we wanted a little bit of that curve to it so it's not going out at an angle,” Pat Montelongo, executive director, global education at Tom Ford Beauty, told WWD. For more, see S/S 18 Influencer Show: Tom Ford.
  • Colourful Cat-Eye: The classic cat-eye has been reinvented in kaleidoscopic colours, with texture ranging from opaque matte to glossy metallic. In Milan, British make-up artist Lynsey Alexander mixed cyan, green and purple Mac Acrylic Paints with white to create “bespoke pastel cut-out liners” at Missoni. Marni continued the painter’s palette theme with glossy daubs of colour and creasing across the eyelids. Fendi’s elongated teal flicks boasted a rich, creamy texture, while Laura Biagiotti’s bright white eyeliner had a chalkier quality.
  • Under-Eye Focus: In London, several designers focused on the lower lash line. New York-based make-up artist Mark Carrasquillo used a stark black stroke of Nars’ Eyeliner Stylo on the waterline to create a modern, witchy feel for JW Anderson. At Marta Jakubowski, British make-up artist Lucy Bridge used wobbly black liquid eyeliner to encase smudges of metallic green, purple and red at the lower lashes – a cool new take on A/W 17/18’s club kids trend.

For more S/S 18 catwalk beauty analysis, see Beauty: Glossy Eyes Light Up NYFW.