Out-of-Season Womenswear Designers S/S 21

The designer stripped away her signature globetrotter flourishes this season and took inspiration from the simple lifestyles of the Shaker community, incorporating subtle decorative details into easy silhouettes.

• A low-key palette of white with neutrals, inky blue and pops of vivid brights.
• Practical windcheaters and shirt jackets.
• Midi-maxi hemlines.
• Neat geometric prints.
• Kaftans and tunic shapes.
• Easy pull-on wide trousers.
• Detachable collars, piping and cuffed trouser detailing.

Sustainability underscored Marques’Almeida’s S/S 21 collection, designed and produced during lockdown in the duo’s hometown of Porto, Portugal using locally sourced fabrics like marine-debris taffetas and certified organic cotton.

• An uplifting palette of white and silver with pops of sunshine yellow, seaweed green, baby blue and pink.
• Oversized sweatshirts and slouchy boyfriend jeans.
• Eighties bubble hems.
• Seventies flared bell sleeves on mini dresses.
• Exaggerated mesh effects.
• Flounces, ruffles and raw-edged fringing.
• Random tie-dyes and overdyed washed denims.

Easy and casual were the buzzwords driving Michael Kors’ S/S 21 showing, as the designer presented a wardrobe of covetable layered pieces perfectly targeted to everyday living.

• A mono palette of black and white with shades of earthy browns and pops of vegetal green and sky blue.
• Simple shapes and easy layering.
• Tailored jackets over breezy tunic shirts and easy trousers.
• Oversized tunic knits with asymmetric hems.
• Structured waistcoats over shirtdresses and tunics.
• Ditsy mono floral prints.
• All-over shimmering micro beading and sequins.

Celine girls will be marching to a youth-oriented beat next summer, as the fashion house’s bourgeoise tropes were replaced with a Gen Z vibe that mixes sporty pieces with girly grunge.

• Wheaten neutrals, washed black and grungy greys.
• Eighties blousons and colour-blocked nylon jackets.
• Tiered midi dresses in faded florals.
• Sporty tracksuit bottoms and athletic shorts.
• High-rise cropped carrot jeans.
• Breton stripes and camouflage prints.
• Tailored blazers layered with cropped tops.

Fresh from his first collaboration with Prada, Raf Simons riffed his signature bold graphics with a play on skinny versus cocooning silhouettes, drawing inspiration from the iconic movies of his youth.

• A palette of vivid brights ranging from ultraviolet, Dijon and aqua to lilac, emerald and salmon pink, counterbalanced by stark black and white.
• Narrow silk and satin skirts teamed with skinny polo necks or oversized sweaters.
• Bold portrait logos and slogan messages.
• Retro psychedelic prints in brights with white.
• Oversized tailoring and billowing capes.
• Waistcoats as a key layering piece.
• Maxi ankle-skimming hemlines.

A new simpler approach from Proenza Schouler, which reduced its signature detailed looks into something more pragmatic and ‘of the moment’, with the emphasis on today’s much needed feel-good factor.

• Sharp white and warm, sunkissed neutrals, highlighted with soft pastels and black
• Long languid silhouettes.
• Ribbed knits and soft stretch jersey.
• Statement skin and ombred tie-dye prints.
• Sassy cut-outs on jersey dresses.
• Fluid trousers with contrast tuxedo stripe on inside leg.
• Glossy tailored leather.