Resort 19 Influencer Show: Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière upped the ante with his Resort 19 show for Louis Vuitton, full of oddball reference points and eclectic styling.
This show, held in the South of France, was a collection of individual pieces, determinedly mismatched to create an eccentric thrown-together look with its roots in the street and vintage-inspired dressing. That vintage was the 80s, an era Ghesquière is often keen to plunder and one with inspiration for the fast fashion and junior markets.
Exaggerated shoulderlines and sleeve detailing dominated the silhouette, with armadillo-style flanges, oversized padding and slashed-open seam details, all oddly teamed with pie-crust ruffles, over-long fluted cuffs, short skater dress proportions and mini wrap and drape skirts.
Contrast trims, peplums, batwing sleeves and wrap and drape tops compounded the 80s theme, along with bum-freezer tuxedos, jacquarded sweaters, cropped bolero jackets and even jodhpurs. For after 6pm there was a change of tack as Ghesquière visited the boudoir with his beaded satin slips and flirty cami-shorts topped with feathered capelets.
There was a play on pattern, too, with mismatched spots and stripes, patchworked florals and an anything-goes medley of treebark plisse, beaded charmeuse and acid-wash denim, leather and feathers, Prince of Wales suiting, LV Damier checks and masculine stripes, all worked in a palette of warm neutrals or black and white, punctuated with lilac, mint, mango and a splash of red.
And if the styling was eccentrically OTT, then watch for the accessorisation of welder eyewear, webbing and leather tie-belts, swinging chain jewellery and fashion’s ubiquitous over-the-knee stocking boots, here on a chunky trainer-style outsole. Not forgetting the collaboration with styling supremo Grace Coddington with her kitsch cat- and dog-shaped bags.
NEED TO KNOW:
- 80s proportion play
- Shoulder and sleeve emphasis on short fluted silhouettes
- Oversized shoulders defined tailoring
- Offbeat pattern mixes
- Pleats and plisse effects/wrap and drape details
- Thigh-high silhouettes coupled with over-the-knee sockboots
- Sneakers on chunky metallic rubber outsoles