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Brief Published: 24 Feb 2015

LFW A/W 15-16: Marios Schwab


Marios Schwab’s gothic Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection (presented off catwalk for the first time) showcased macabre elegance, modernised period silhouettes, and exciting applications for the accessories market.

Schwab was inspired by Spanish baroque painter Velázquez and British figurative painter Francis Bacon, whose works play with dark, sinister and raw imagery. 

Red and black is a key colour combination, with macabre organs, rib cages and detailed nervous systems (the human body is another key inspiration) underlying nude and black organza. Cape shapes, oversized fedoras and rich black leather gloves and knee-high boots confirm the dark romantic aesthetic.

  • Gruesome Accessories: Vertical and horizontal gold detailing represent the spinal column and rib cage. Textural appliqués and beading detail in neon red add gruesome, yet delicate appeal. Torso harnesses in thin leather and gold, which connect to the waist with a choker, emphasise the gothic theme.   
  • Volume & Silhouette: Gothic silhouettes are crafted via delicate panniers and billowy organza. Puffed shoulders are dropped, the waist is emphasised, and soft pleats are layered for interesting texture and volume play.
  • Ghoulish Grooming: This collection confirms a styling trend from the New York catwalks for gothic and ghostly beauty looks. See NYFW A/W 15-16: Gothic Grooming for more.