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Brief Published: 26 Sep 2013

PFW S/S 2014: Dries Van Noten


Paris Fashion Week kicked off today with Dries Van Noten yet again proving a highlight, showcasing a collection that fused drama, homespun craft and the laid-back cool the designer has become known for over the past few seasons.

Van Noten’s signature elegant take on androgyny remained key with low-slung trousers, loosely buttoned shirts and hands in roomy pockets making for an easy, nonchalant tone. However, this relaxed air was counteracted with thick, layered ruffles and rich shimmering gold (a central metallic hue for the season) for an opulent edge.

Jersey vest tops, classic tailoring and simple, sheer shirts kept these more dramatic pieces wearable and contemporary; eveningwear for those who don’t wear eveningwear. The ruffle was central to the collection, starting small on feminine, mid-length skirts and trimming sleeves and cuffs before moving on to larger layers and finally hitting a crescendo with a show-stopping finale rosette dress.

There was an ethnic, homespun edge through the tapestry jackets and tasselled trims seen at the start of the show, with a central floral print story referencing similarly rural inspirations. It’s no surprise to see florals as summer print, but this time it was the tulip’s turn – perhaps referencing the designer’s Dutch heritage. However, the flower looked far from humble when printed on rich silk and seen against a black background to accent the multicoloured blooms.

In terms of silhouette, Van Noten continued to hone his focus on creating modern, simple shapes with loose lines, mid-length hemlines and sweatshirts, once again tapping into the modern woman’s sartorial psyche, feeling both sexy and demure all at once.