S/S 18 Influencer Show: Simone Rocha

The look was the culmination of the Victorian/Edwardian influences that have underpinned the high street in recent seasons, with frou-frou ruffles and flounces adding volume to swingy, smock-shaped dresses.

Pouffed bubble hemlines added to the babydoll look, highlighted with a palette of crisp white and palest balletic pinks, along with the quirky, homespun embroidered doll motifs tracing the edges of soft, undulating frills. Rocha delivered a darker Victoriana mood in the collection’s black taffetas, jet beading and funereal satins, alleviated by sprigged rosebud florals and simplistic sequined daisy flowers on sheers. 

Crisp cottons, broderie anglaise, organza and ethereal tulle were offset with the more sculptural appeal of moire taffetas and the rustic touch of rose-patterned, homespun tweeds, with their tufted floral trims. Meanwhile, elegantly worked bias satin dresses straight from a 30s boudoir delivered a change of tack.

It may not have been the season’s most commercial collection, but it perfectly encapsulated the emerging mood for a return to simpler, childlike-times. There were plenty of influences to inspire party developments, along with covetable accessories like the squishy clutch bag, cellophane-look sandals and red velvet Mary Janes.

NEED TO KNOW 

• Childlike, babydoll looks
• Taffetas, organza and frothy tulles for voluminous ruffled silhouettes
• Ruffles and frills continue, highlighted with naïve embroidery motifs
• Multiple layers of contrasting fabrics for tone-on-tone texture
• Sequined flower motifs, sprigged florals and tufted flower shapes
• Velvet accessories.