S/S 19 Influencer Show: Loewe
Jonathan Anderson has finally come home at Loewe, delivering one of the best S/S 19 showings of Paris Fashion Week – celebrating all things anti-homogenised and a life lived in the slow lane.
It’s an influence that’s been preoccupying the designer for several seasons. And for S/S 19, he gave full vent to his favoured artisanal and handcrafted looks, which spell the new luxury in today’s over-complicated and fast-paced world.
Andersen’s silhouettes emphasised the mood with easy, elongated shapes built around a template of soft, unstructured layers – think relaxed tunics and shirts, soft pyjama pants, hip-hung wrapped skirts, and dresses with wafting, castellated hemlines. All creating a look of eclectically quiet luxury.
Contrasting textures brought a new dimension into play, with slinky satins sitting alongside butter-soft suedes and leathers, patchworked foulard silks and a flurry of feathers. Covetable, soft-touch brushed knits and blazer-striped linens were also added to the mix – all worked in an understated palette of black and white, manila-toned neutrals and unexpected pops of coral, pale pink, tangerine and jade.
And if the fabrics were luxurious and eclectic, Andersen’s rustic detailing brought them down to earth, with raw frayed edges and traditional smocking trims enhancing the artisanal, homespun feel.
Soft, slouched ankle boots added just the right downplayed look when teamed with ankle-skimming hemlines, while bags came as big totes or casual, cross-body shoppers in everything from luxe suede and leather, to raffia and crochet, to fringing and feathers.
NEED TO KNOW:
- Artisanal and crafted – the new building blocks of luxe looks
- Easy elongated silhouettes and multiple layering
- Neutral palette with pops of mid-tone brights
- Textural fabric mixes with a focus on soft-touch luxury
- Rustic homespun detailing for added contrast
- Decorative techniques like crochet and fringing add an artisanal feel to next summer’s luxe bags.