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Brief Published: 12 Feb 2014

NYFW A/W 14: MBMJ & Rodarte

With a new, attitude-driven era for Marc by Marc Jacobs and a fantastically retro Rodarte collection, New York Fashion Week shows no signs of slowing down just yet.

With British designers Luella Bartley (formerly of now defunct label Luella) and Kate Hillier taking up the helm at American label Marc by Marc Jacobs, the diffusion line had something of a rebirth this season and will now be known as MBMJ. The collection itself was full of attitude, drawing inspiration from Japanese streetwear with a tribal, girl-gang aesthetic throughout. 

Importantly, Hillier and Bartley made the decision to only cast girls in the show, whereas the label has previously featured a mixture of men and women on its catwalks.

In terms of print directions, BMX bike-inspired logos and slogans set the rebellious tone, while the plaid and stripes on offer were anything but preppy thanks to the use of latex and bold styling. Baggy tailoring and dresses were fiercely belted and accessorised with flat-soled biker boots, while layered polo necks and neckerchiefs kept necklines high and severe.

Elsewhere, US label Rodarte dazzled with glittering practical hybrids such as brightly coloured lurex parkas, and nostalgic detailing like crocheted and smocked dresses with added crystals for a grown-up edge. There were retro 60s undertones through the oversized tinted glasses and beret/polo-neck combinations, with multiple layers and ruffles in various textures making for an eclectic finish. The collection has been dubbed the 'Starwars collection' because of the stardust textures and printed finale dresses featuring stills from the iconic George Lucas films.

The collection reflects the trends laid out in our Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Design Direction Solstice, as the old and new are fused together for a look that blends craft with technology.

NYFW continues until Thursday, with London Fashion Week commencing on Friday.