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Brief Published: 27 Jan 2012

Spring 2012 Couture: The Future Smoking


Brazilian designer Gustavo Lins and French couture brands Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel presented distinctive takes on the smoking jacket at the Spring 2012 couture shows in Paris this week.

Jean Paul Gaultier’s tuxedo jacket is inspired by the late British singer-songwriter Amy Winehouse. Channeling her fondness for nipped waists, an asymmetrically pinstripe jacket slipped off the shoulders to achieve her notorious disheveled look. In stark contrast, Gustavo Lins drew inspiration from his native Brazil, tailoring his signature kimono-style design into a sensual, long black double crepe jacket that draped an exaggerated satin lapel to the thigh.

Meanwhile, Chanel also presented a black, floor-length, straight-cut jacket. Part mid-century couture, part Matrix fiction, the lustrous, wax-coated jacket shows a funnel collar running from shoulder to shoulder. The elongated proportions are sported heavily by British model Alice Dellal – an advocate of 1980s style who stands as the label’s current muse. 

Italian fashion brand Valentino brought the couture shows to a close on Wednesday 25 January 2012. Look out for further coverage of the collections coming soon.

Atelier Gustavo Lins
Jean Paul Gaultier