Resort 2014: The Americans Are Coming
New York designers are proving they’re ahead of the curve when it comes to creating great pre-collections, with a host of American labels demonstrating winning formulas for Resort 2014.
Pre-collections are more important than ever (see New Branding Lessons from the Catwalk for more information), with the most successful offering wearable, accessible pieces that work in tandem with the two main collections for a seamless transition between seasons. And no-one does understated, wearable cool better than New York.
Designer duo Proenza Schouler kept it succinct with 15 looks that felt relaxed and easy-going in comparison to their main collections, while still demonstrating the same interest in monochrome, graphic prints and sporty femininity. Simple black dresses and boxy white jackets offered a take on the concept of ‘basics’ that would work with more statement pieces from Autumn/Winter 2013-14. Elsewhere, Theysken’s Theory by French designer Olivier Theyskens based his resort collection on the concept of ‘real essentials’, stripping the aesthetic right back to the basics for a highly coveted result.
Diffusion lines really come into their own for pre-collections as demonstrated by Thakoon Addition by Thakoon Panichgul and 10 Crosby Derek Lam by Derek Lam. Both looked to layered, exact lines and a predominantly neutral palette, with Thakoon leaning towards sporty geometry and Lam working casual elegance with tailored jersey pieces and drop waists.
The Resort 2014 collections continue to be released. See our A/W 13-14 seasonal overview for a recap of the season’s trends.