New York Fashion Week kick-started the Spring/Summer 2018 season with a power-packed show from Tom Ford, who returned to the runway with a timely take on the current mood for all things 90s.
The Gucci designer who made 90s dressing sexy – think those iconic slinky satin shirts and hip-slung velvet jeans – was on a timely trajectory, with his sharp-shouldered blazers perfectly hitting the current sweet spot for all things tailored.
Those jackets came with power shoulders and crisply peaked lapels – worked best in eye-searing Schiaparelli pink velvet or when teamed with gravity-defying high-cut body suits and low-slung cargo pants. That same sportswear vibe carried through to easy, rolled-cuff shorts and sinuous leather track pants, along with voluminous, round-shouldered blousons.
Ford’s S/S 18 colour palette was stingingly clean and sharp, from bright fuchsia and mandarin to Yves Klein blue, lilac and lemon yellow – contrasted with a feminine palette of flesh-toned neutrals and graphic black and white.
Luscious, tactile fabrics evoked those heady 90s Gucci days, with sleek satins, plush velvets, chainmail and dazzling sequins adding a luxe contrast to tailored dark-dye denim and supple second-skin leathers.
For raunchy evenings with a glamorous masculine-feminine vibe, Ford gave us sharply scissored tuxedos worn over wide-cut pants and sexy scooped-neck all-in-ones. He contrasted these with seriously clingy ruched tulle dresses with armoured chainmail sleeves and elongated shimmering sequined tees.
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