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Brief Published: 24 Sep 2014

Catwalks S/S 15: No-Make-Up Make-Up

Backstage at Marc Jacobs

The no-make-up make-up look escalated this catwalk season. Designers showcased youthful, dewy looks with suggestions of colour and glow with little or no make-up at all. Instead, natural skin enhanced by skincare products alone took centre stage.

We’re used to seeing no-make-up looks, but these are usually achieved using tonal cosmetics. However, this catwalk season, we saw designers applying minimal make-up or eschewing it all together.

Christopher Kane debuted a make-up collaboration with high-fashion make-up brand Nars at London Fashion Week. The British designer – who is known for championing barefaced beauty looks – sent models down the runway with fresh, even skintones with subtle highlights. Colour was all but eliminated from the palette, with make-up artist Lucia Pieroni using Violet Atom Multiple, an iridescent, violet-hued, multi-use product from the new collection brushed sparingly on spots naturally touched by light. The collection is set to launch in 2015 and will further market natural as high fashion.

Taking the trend one step further, Nars applied skincare alone to models’ faces at the Marc Jacobs show at New York Fashion Week. No make-up whatsoever featured in the show, with clean, virgin skin shrouded in shaggy black Joan Jet wigs realising the American designer’s vision of a ‘model army’. For a brand with a relatively new make-up line, this was a bold move.

In our coverage of the A/W 14-15 Couture shows, we highlight the natural look of the naïve ingénue as a key driver for the season’s beauty trends. Dior, Valentino and Viktor & Rolf chose minimal, hyper-natural looks, with natural lashes and well-groomed brows.

Similarly, the make-up look for our S/S 16 Design Direction Perfect Ordinary relies on the health and vitality of the skin. Natural to the point of non-existent, cheeks and lips are kept dewy and fresh, while eyes are only warmed through with hints of peach and subtle metallic taupe shimmers.

We have already seen women increasingly experiment with going makeup free, although it is still considered daring. See the charity no-makeup selfie campaign earlier in the year as an example. We do however consider this a high-fashion, influential look that will slowly trickle down.