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Brief Published: 3 Oct 2011

PFW S/S 2012: Kenzo


Newly appointed creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon of NY-based retailer Opening Ceremony debuted the Spring/Summer 2012 collection for French fashion house Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week.

Bringing a sense of New York cool to Paris Fashion Week, Lim and Leon merged aspects of American culture into the iconic bricolage aesthetic of Kenzo. Entering the market at the high-end of the contemporary price point, the new collection channels the work of American artist Ellsworth Kelly, and the laid-back vibe of lakeside weekends in upstate New York.

Successfully working multiple trends seen on the New York Spring/Summer 2012 runway, Kenzo featured print-on-print with 3D colour combinations and bird motifs, peter pan collars, and peplums – the tiered, hip-level jacket was a tailored take on this ladylike detail. Also breaking through as an important influence at S/S 2012 shows, technical sportswear showed prevalently at Kenzo, with super sporty references such as drawstrings, manly tassels, ruched waistbands and kagouls worn draped over the shoulders and tied at the neck.  

Opening Ceremony's private label has long been coveted for its accessories. These were appropriated for Kenzo with paper-bag shoes tied at the ankle, and long peaked visor caps in a fisherman’s net-like pattern.

The LVMH fashion brand was established by Japanese designer Kenzo Takada in 1970. Paris Fashion Week runs until October 5 2011.