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Brief Published: 1 Mar 2012

PFW A/W 12-13: Dries Van Noten


The allure of the exotic was a key interest for Belgian fashion designer Dries Van Noten as London’s Victoria and Albert Museum provided multiple Asian prints and motifs for his Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collection, shown yesterday at Paris Fashion Week.

Photographing kimonos and robes printed with Chinese, Japanese and Korean iconography, Van Noten re-appropriated antiquated designs for a new generation. From filigree-embroidered golden dragons creeping up the cuffs of shirts and jackets, to floor-length kimono-inspired dresses, the collection captured the historical East-meets-West culture of Dutch port Antwerp, where Van Noten is based. In addition, classic Asian prints were shown in contemporary shapes and silhouettes, while monochrome separates and oversized fur collars provided a luxe edge.

Reimagining historical iconography in order to create a new vision for the contemporary consumer, Van Noten succeeded in amalgamating past and present cultures from opposite ends of the globe for a commercial take on the postmodern mash-up that resonated well with Stylus’ Sidestep and Protest concepts.

Stylus’ Sidestep industry trend found confirmations in the apron skirt silhouettes and patchworks of print and colour on dresses and trousers, while the utility belts that cinched in Kimono-inspired jackets and suiting were a consistent military nod to Stylus’ Protest industry trend throughout the show. Double-breasted wool Crombie coats and khaki trousers with zips at the hems were further examples of uniform styling.

Paris Fashion Week runs until March 7 2012, and concludes the A/W 12-13 Fashion Week season.

Paris Fashion Week