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Brief Published: 16 Feb 2012

NYFW A/W 12-13: Proenza Schouler


After being inspired by mid-century Googie architecture for Spring/Summer 2012, US label Proenza Schouler showed a thoroughly contemporary line for Autumn/Winter 2012-13 at New York Fashion Week (NYFW), looking to Asia and beyond for an angular aesthetic with plenty of attitude.

Confirming many trends already seen on New York's catwalks, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s collection featured wide black leather trousers or 'bin-liner' style pants similar to those seen at Diane Von Furstenburg and Derek Lam’s shows earlier in the week. In addition, their focus on oversized proportions with wide, scaled-up biker jackets teamed with low-slung trousers and mini wraparound skirts well-reflected the direction for bold, almost unwearable silhouettes, as seen at Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs.

Asian inspirations have abounded at NYFW – from Jason Wu's homage to China, to Zac Posen's modern-day geishas. Proenza Schouler approached Asian inspirations from a resolutely contemporary standpoint. Progressing from karate-inspired tailoring to a distinctly Asian finale with traditional embroidered fish emblems and kimono-inspired dresses, the design duo managed to inject fresh vision into Eastern inspirations – never straying into costume territory.


The collection also offered ample confirmations of Stylus' A/W 12-13 fashion industry trends. Channelling the Protest Print & Fabrication and Workwear styling reports, placard-style tops and heavy-duty skirts, a leather-look boilersuit and netting and tartan fabrications offered clear confirmations. In the collection's later looks, porcelain-inspired finale dresses in iridescent fabrics resonated with the more feminine Fairytale direction.

NYFW concludes today (February 16 2012), with London Fashion week commencing tomorrow.

Proenza Schouler