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Brief Published: 2 Oct 2013

PFW S/S 2014: Louis Vuitton


It was Marc Jacobs’ swan song today at Louis Vuitton as after weeks of rumours, it was finally confirmed the revered designer would be leaving his role as creative director after 16 years.

Jacobs paid homage to previous collections with a dark and haunting set akin to a deserted amusement park, with blackened versions of elements seen at previous Louis Vuitton shows, such as the carousel from S/S 12 and the twin elevators of S/S 13. The models themselves were almost like swans with black feather headdresses immediately adding drama to the darkened, eerie runway, set around a large fountain. Model of the season Edie Campbell opened the show painted with the iconic Stephen Sprouse x Louis Vuitton graffiti, updated in sequins – one of Jacobs’ first artistic collaborations in 2000, and carrying bejewelled chains.

Jacobs went on to cement his macabre vision for the season first laid out at his eponymous show in New York, focusing on decadent Victoriana embellishment, beading and lattice work, all in rich black. Just like his mainline show, the wealth of gothic detail was tempered with black biker boots, boyish shapes and denim for a youthful note of grunge. The aesthetic and the atmosphere aptly balanced a ghostly sense of something past with a wistful nostalgia for all that has been.

Jacobs received a standing ovation as the final curtain drew his time at Louis Vuitton to a close. He leaves to concentrate on his own label, while the industry waits with baited breath for news of his successor. The majority of rumours point towards Nicolas Ghesquiere, previous creative director of Balenciaga.