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Brief Published: 14 Feb 2014

NYFW Concludes: Marc Jacobs & Calvin Klein

Yesterday saw the final day of New York Fashion Week, along with a snowstorm that challenged even the bravest of show-goers, with lows of -2 degrees. Still, the shows pressed on, with both Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein proving standout shows. 

Having left his role at Parisian label Louis Vuitton after a final collection for Spring/Summer 2014, American designer Marc Jacobs was in a light, ethereal mood this season, offering a muted, serene palette for Autumn/Winter 2014-15 at his eponymous show. The scene was set before a single model even took to the runway, with glittery clouds suspended from the ceiling and a single white lily on each guest’s seat. Bluntly cut wigs and bleached brows heightened the aesthetic laid out with subtle silhouettes, soft, pastel colours and austere fabrications.

A dramatic shift in focus from Jacobs’ previous season, which focused on Victoriana decay and youthful rebellion, this was less about drama and more about subtlety. However, as fashion site Style.com rightly pointed out, this wasn’t about minimalism, either; the layering of opulent fabrications, embellishments and organza ruffles made for a thoroughly feminine offering. In terms of reference, the early 70s played a role in the shimmering tunics layered over softly flared trousers and ribbed, pastel knitwear and scarves.

Elsewhere, US designer Calvin Klein embraced his 90s roots for a collection that placed great emphasis on comfort, warmth and natural fabrications. Layered, mid-length hemlines teamed with lace-up flat ankle boots made for a grunge-inspired look, with the outdoors and traditional craft reflected in the woven knitwear and earthy tones. Slim-fitting knitted dresses were offset with oversized coats, while frayed hems and unstitched boucle tweed added to the undone aesthetic.

London Fashion Week commences today.