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Brief Published: 29 Sep 2011

PFW S/S 2012: Rochas


Citing a cluster of cinematic references, Paris fashion house Rochas showed its Spring/Summer 2012 collection at Paris Fashion Week yesterday. From Hitchcock to Tim Burton, designer Marco Zanini tapped into a sense of quirky eccentricity.

Working in pastel organzas, Zanini played with the classic 1950s New Look silhouette with a cinched true waist by shifting hemlines down and adding volume to chunky knits. Full skirts were heavily embellished, offering a sugary sweet veneer, but a bold sense of modernity was fostered with silk, below-the-knee T-shirt dresses, oversized, masculine tailoring, and heavy flatforms and mules. Candyfloss pink, lavender and pale peppermint were contrasted with taupe, tan and black to keep the look austere and grown-up, rather than girlishly flirtatious.

The aesthetic was working woman meets country club housewife, with belted strapless swimsuits and plaid bikinis inviting a sense of weekend pool parties and Italian vacations. The silhouette was demure with simple shift dresses and matching separates (with matching knit skirts and jumpers looking particularly fresh) keeping the look prim and perfectly pulled together. Headscarves knotted under the chin and micro, palm-sized bags and purses worked as tongue-in-cheek accessories with retro charm.